Working out the bugs:

Update 1-3-2012

The Roof 101 Cyclone is a very tightly designed piece of equipment, but as with all new things some little issues arise and need to be changed or explained.

1: ROCKER ARM GEOMETRY:  HOT TIP: Setting up the correct pushrod-adjustable lifter length can be accomplished SIMPLY by using the Manley pushrod length checker # 42132. This is a simple plastic tool that you push down over the rocker stud until it touches the top of the valve stem. You then adjust the allen bolt (push rod seat bolt)  in the lifter (Tappet) until the top of the pushrod touches the other side of the Manley tool. This easily produces the correct pushrod length & rocker arm angle. It is recommended that owners avail themselves with this tool to make installation a snap. It not absolutely necessary it just makes it easy. Available at www.Summitracing.com get one for 7/16" studs . . . about $10.00.

LASH SETTING MADE EASIER  Jim Newcomb, Maryland, has discovered that setting the Roof's lash is much easier with a hardened washer, 5/8" OD X 7/16" ID X 3/16" thick, placed between the rocker lock nut and the poly-lock nut. This raises the lock nut and gives more room for the wrenches to fit. It does not cover up the oil hole in the stud.

       photos by Dennis Piranio

2: PUSH ROD SEAT BOLT: In practice, we have found that our 1-1/4" long "pushrod seat bolt" (3/8-24 X 1-1/4" allen head cap screw) is the right length for  normal street driving WHEN bottomed out to about 15 lbs of torque into the adjustable tappet. Torqueing too far can "fatten" the tappet and must be avoided. When using the above noted "Checker Tool" you may find that a bolt of 1/64" to 1/32" longer would be nice for the theoretical perfect blue printed geometry. These custom lengths are not available and will have to be made up from longer bolts. Take a 1-1/2" bolt and grinding it to size is the trick . . .  a lot of trial and error but you'll be on the right track. . . .  OR-this better idea

It would be BEST to have a jam nut on the "push rod set bolt", locked against the tappet, to securely hold the bolt to the proper length. Normal hex jam nuts will not work as they are too large to slide down into the the tappet boss. . . . . but not these babies . . .

Purchase these:  #NUT-24500,  3/8-24, 12 pt, star nut.  These round star nuts use a 12 pt, 7/16" flare-nut-wrench to tighten. Available from the "Jessel Valve Train Company," phone 732-901-1800, cost is $3.64 each plus shipping. Normally used in older Chrysler engines. Also available from ARP Fasteners. You will need a special wrench - 2 choices.

A: 12 point Flare-Nut Wrench 3/8"X 7/16". PN: 54745A63 McMaster Carr, $15.00. The gap will need to be ground to clear the threaded part of the bolt.

B: Quick-Grab Ratchet Action Wrench 7/16".  PN: 5515A12 McMaster Carr. These 12 pt grippers are the first best choice at $19.00.

Note on tappet Bosses: Some engine builders machine off the tops of the tappet bosses. Probably no two shops cut the same amount off, but I have recently seen one engine cut 3/8" down. The only reason we can think of, to do this damage, is to be able to use the smaller "Double Locker" adjustable tappets, which do NOT rise far enough to adjust the "jam nut" unless the bosses are shortened.  This boss shortening is problematic due to the sideways force caused by the rotating camshaft and could, and probably will, prematurely wear the tappet bore down to a lopsided oval.  (The Riley and Roof OHV will NOT work with "double locker" adjustable tappets - their thread size is too small).

DO NOT USE "Double Locker" adjustable tappets, they are not sized correctly for use in our OHV equipment.

3. VALVE COVER SEALS -NEW : The four valve covers shipped with a large O-ring fit to a machined edge. The O-ring is not leaking, but gets too slippery to work with easily.  These 4 gasket parts are IN STOCK and will be shipped FREE by request of owners.

4: INSTALLING INTAKE MANIFOLD:  the Roof intake manifold should be installed in this order:  HOT TIP: Install the spark plugs first. There is no room for a socket wrench after the manifold is installed. An box-end wrench can be used.

A: Hand install bolts to head to be sure they turn easy by fingers. If any are tight chase the threads (shouldn't be needed). Use anti-seize compound.

B: Install one gasket to each port held with two upper bolts/lock washer threaded in about 2 threads deep (loose). Hold the manifold level and pull it out to the upper bolts and  slip in a bottom bolt/lock washer to about 2 threads. When all bolts are in place start tightening by finger a little to each one until all are seated fairly evenly. Bottom bolts are a tight fit by the manifold's curves. If the installed is done in this manner it will fit together nicely.

5: ROOF CARBURETOR ADAPTERS: The Roof aluminum adapters were nicely machined but should have been tapped. The holes are slightly over sized for this but will tap nicely to 3/8-18 and do hold 20 pounds of torque. This requires drilling out the carburetor's mount holes to 3/8" to fit the bolts. Also, of the 3 carb mount holes in the adapter, the single center hole will require some tweaking to get the bolt to slide into the hole. A little filing to the hole and little to flange lip. This has been corrected in present casting/machining runs.

6: LASH BREAK IN: There are reports of the lash changing after 100 mile check up. This is fairly normal on new OHV conversion installations. The gasket will compress (you did re-torque didn't you!); the push rod seat bolt will settle in; the valves will settle in; the poly-lock nut bases will wear in . . . etc. So, after 300 miles double check your lash. Any change after that should be minimal. Change your oil after 300 miles or 4 hours.

7:  WATER PUMP MOUNT:

A: It has been confirmed that the head's water pump mount face needs to be milled off 3/16"*** off to make the pump's pulley line up with the crank pulley. This minor misalignment issue has not affected our test engine. Future production will be corrected. In addition: the limiter boss, inside the head, is to be machined down .970" to .975" and the shaft counter bore is to be deepened .200" X .687" dia.

B: Look inside the head's pump mount: find the "pump-shaft-limiter-boss". Look at your water pump's rear side. Note that the shaft sticks out through the pump's propeller boss. The pump's propeller boss is to limit, make contact, at the head's inside "limiter boss" and that boss is to be counter bored to accept the tip of the pump's shaft. The gasket adds the needed clearance.

***To discover the most accurate amount to remove from the pump mount face: Install the pump. Use a long straight edge held firmly to the front of the crankshaft pulley and measure the difference at the water pump pulley. The most accurate number is closer to 1/4".  I suggest 3/16" removal to keep the head's pump mount ears strong. If you choose to custom fit a pump to your own numbers remember to mill the inside "limiter boss" and deepen the counter bore to fit your pump.

HOT TIP - PUMP OPTIONS:

A: Jim Newcomb, Maryland, discovered a solution to avoid cylinder head machine work: A "short" 1933-34 "B" water pump (rare) can be fit. To get the good alignment use a longer shaft (Model A or B pump shaft) that has been shortened to align the tapered end and pulley to the correct spot.

B: There are aluminum water pump adapters available to mate a 1932-36 Ford V-8 water pump to a Model B head - three bolt pump mount. In this case the aluminum adapter would be machined (a bit from each side) to make up the needed clearance. These type V-8 pumps do not have fan blades. Fan blades can be attached to a "donut" of aluminum that is machined and press fit to the snout of the water pump. We do not carry these adapters (call or email).

8:  TIMING GEARS: I can not over emphasize enough the importance of using a metal timing gear. The fiber gears are not strong enough to guarantee integrity with high pressure valve springs. There are aluminum and bronze timing gears in the market. The Bronze is strongest and runs quieter. The aluminum job is strong but make no mistake, the cam nut must be torqued to 125 pounds. Just don't take a chance with a fiber/plastic gear. We have reason to believe the cam nut can loosen when used with aluminum gears, which are much softer than bronze and may unknowingly crush under high torque settings.

9: FIT TO FIRE WALL: Just like the Riley Two Port set up, the Roof 101 Cyclone is a tight fit at the fire wall. It is suggested that precautions be taken to protect the fire wall as the engine is lowered onto the mounts. Removal of the electrical "terminal box" should be done prior to installing and relocation should be considered. The terminal box can be used in the stock position but great care must be used to prevent Wing Nut to Rocker Box contact and an electrical short will occur. HOT TIP: Some guys have reinstalled the junction box inside on the firewall . . . works great.

10: INTAKE MANIFOLD: In airflow testing it was discovered, that the Intake Manifold will flow 100%, that is, it will flow equal to the head without a manifold installed, if the two outboard throats are opened (bored larger) by 1/16" at the diameter and the center mount is blocked off.  This manifold modification used two (2) new Stromberg 97s.

    It is suspected, but not confirmed, that two (2) Ford/Holley, "7HA" and "8HA" 1941-53, six cylinder, single throat carburetors will produce about the same results. A side note about the "H" series carbs: each were rated at 90 HP on era Ford 6 Cylinder engines and they use many, but not all, of the parts from the Holley 94 series . . . . and 8HA kits are readily available. These carburetors are a direct bolt on.

11: COATING, PAINTING, POLISHING OR CHROMING THE ROCKER BOXES:

These processes can affect the VERY CRITICAL alignment hole dimensions.

Chrome and paint add material to alignment holes and to valve guides.

1) Rocker box ALIGNMENT SHOULDER BOLT holes. There are 3 of these holes in each rocker box for total of six. They are aNOT machined to 4 decmil points.

2) The valve guides must NOT be removed but must be protected from chroming or coatings.

Repeat - do NOT remove the valve guides.

3) Rocker box to head surfaces must remain metal to metal.

After Rocker Box removal (save the 5 O-ring gaskets) replace the shoulder bolts and add a washer and nut (5/16-18) to bottom side and tighten securely. This should seal the holes during chroming baths and protect them from polishing. Purchase a replacement set of bolts if needed. Consult with your chroming company for their further advise on protecting these critical holes.

These can be protected by running a bolt down through each guide, with washer top and bottom, and sealed with a nut. DO NOT REMOVE THE VALVE GUIDES

Should be free of all forms of paint/coatings. DO NOT polish the bottom. A smooth hard chrome surface is OK but virgin metal to metal is best. DO NOT RE-MACHINE the bottom of Rocker boxes. The alignment and measurements are very critcal. Remachining will require new valve seats to be ground.

Do a quick couple spins with valve grind compound to each valve to insure a good seal.

Plugs should be installed in oil hole pathways. Flow a solvent through them and blow clean.

Screw in a 7/16-14 bolt to protect the threads and oil passageway.

It would be best to paint or coat the head with the rocker boxes in place and masked off.

If not possible then cut a template of the rocker base and attach it to the head so that coatings do not adhere to the metal under the rocker boxes. Metal to metal contact is best to hold tolerances. The O-ring gaskets can be used as masks and left in the o-ring grooves, then use laquer thinner to remove coating from contact area.

Purchase a new set of o-rings if painted or damaged.

12: DISTRIBUTOR DRIVE SHAFT:

The distributor drive shaft is made extra long on purpose. Grind the ends equally to get to the size for your setup. The tangs should be tight. Better to have it too tight at the git-go than too wide. Filing female slot to size is OK.

13: HEATING INTAKE MANIFOLD:

Water plugs are: 3/8 npt on manifold, in 2 places, and 1/2 npt on head, in 4 places.

The manifold requires two 3/8" npt barbed fittings. One or two 1/2 npt barbed fitting for engine. Try speedway motors for these $7 fittings. Http://www.speedwaymotors.com/90-chrome-fittings,3254.html 

You may find other ways to route the hoses, such as straight out of the head and straight into the manifold. Or perhaps a loop: 90 degrees down and up to 90 degree fitting . . .etc. Let us know what works for you.

Run one hose from a cylinder head plug hole (hot water) - rear is good - to manifold. Run another hose from the manifold down to (cold water) the lower water pipe (braze on a fitting). Snyder's has a lower connection ready to go for about $15  http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/1921

Circulation is by modest pump pressure and thermal movement. We wanted to be able to connect directly from manifold to the side of the head directly across in two places - it can be done - but is a difficult/tight fit.  Any route you choose will work to some degree. 

I have not connected or experimented with this on the test engine.

If you discover a problem, a better way or have a "hot tip" please contact us.